Table Mountain

WE CLIMBED TABLE MOUNTAIN it was very exciting.

There is a cable car to the top of the mountain, which I didn't know about. So most of the people on top had travelled the thousand metres up on that. Losers. We went up the proper way. We had a false start on this, the day before there was cloud over the top of the mountain so we wouldn't have been able to see anything, and we were too late to climb it in the morning before the noon sun. So last Saturday we (I) packed the 3 recommended litres and set off.

The so-called easiest route up is via Platteklip gorge which is roughly in the middle of the mountain as you look at it from the city. It starts with what would have been a pleasant hike up through some woods, with streams, lots of flowers and life etc, had it not been for the armada of flies which attached itself to each hiker as soon as they stepped onto the path. We saw some poor peroxide blonde whose hair now looked leopardprint. Once we got through the woods however and onto the barren rocks the flies stopped.

The next part of the climb was over boulders. Here they were all of a fair size and trodden in heavily (into each other) so they were at least stable, but orange rock for an hour is hard work. We were rewarded with steadily improving views on the way up. The worst part of this section however was the complete lack of shade. The tree cover had fallen away and this part was on the bare face of the mountain so we were in full sun for this whole time.

Eventually we started to climb into a depression in the mountain face which transformed into the gorge. Here the path began on a switchback route, necessary as I would estimate the slope as about sixty degrees. The rocks here formed occasional stairways, more by accident than design I think, and the "steps" were between one and two feet high throughout. Being a gorge there must be some streams that run through, and some vegetation reappeared. Fortunately without the flies! The best part of this section was that as the folded ribbon of the path reached the western edge of the gorge, some shade was to be found. Better still, here some water dripped from the peak which cooled the rocks we leant on and the leaners. Following our first proper rest of the climb and a liberal reapplication of sun cream, which with the sweat was dripping off us in unpleasant white rivulets, we progressed steadily up the gorge. The bright point of sky at the head of the gorge contrasted with the dizzying walls of rock surrounding us as we climbed, and the ground fell away behind us to a vista of the flat city below and bright sea beyond. The only animal life to be seen were birds wheeling overhead, flying between perches nestled in cracks in the vast bare rockfaces, orange flashing from their wingtips and their calls the only sounds, aside from our footsteps and the echoes of climbers ahead testing the acoustic properties of this funnel.

And eventually, after two hours of steady hard climb, the top. Which was crammed with the aforementioned cable-car losers. They were easily recognised by their sandals and dry shirts while we were pretty drenched with sweat. Again, losers.

The view from the top was incredible. You would expect the best to be had from looking over the city, but in fact the outstanding aspect was looking south. The Cape Peninsula has a backbone of a line of separate peaks known as the Twelve Apostles (there are about fifteen). Following the path along the southern edge of the table, we came upon the shop and restaurant and rewarded ourselves with some kind of yoghurt muesli thing for Sandra and a cold beer for me. While we sat in the garden the birds which until recently had been flying over our heads now hopped along the walls next to us.

As for getting back down again. Our plan had been to hike up and take the cable car down. However we had left ourselves impecunious... so Sandra took the cable car and I walked. Two hours up but 40 minutes down! My legs were like jelly and I had to stop a couple of times because I couldn't stand, before charging again headlong down the mountain. I only lost my footing once though.

Our legs were sore afterwards. It was worth it.